Stromness, Scotland

Current Location: Stromness, Orkney Islands, Scotland
Current Coordinates: 58°′N 3°′W
Next Stop: Stornoway, Isle of Lewis, Scotland
Listening: Jimi Hendrix, The Star Spangled Banner, Woodstock, 1969
Above Photo: Entrance to Scapa Flow, Orkney Islands

Skipper At the Helm

Gitana left Lerwick, Shetland Islands Thursday morning at 0600 for Stromness, Orkney Islands. The passage took 24 hours and covered 120 nautical miles. Very calm seas, thanks to yet another high pressure system to our northwest. Arrived in Stromness at 0645 Friday morning.

Happy Fourth of July to all. Now that I've shown my political colors I might as well tell you of the first thing someone asked me as I stepped on terra firma in the Orkneys this morning. Another elderly man (I keep running into these characters) watched us tie up to the floating dock, taking notice of the American flag that flies at Gitana's stern. He looked at me, said "welcome," and then asked me if I {was} "ready to celebrate my independence from George Bush--Jujj Boosh." A classic Scotsman. I laughed. In an effort to try and reestablish some political benignness on Paulgrimage, I'll keep my response to myself.



Stromness is just near Scappa Flow--one of the great natural harbors of the world. It was used as a stopping point by the Hudson Bay company during the 18th century and later became famous for its roles in WWI and WWII. During the Second world war the Royal Navy made the perilous mistake of assuming that German uboats a) wouldnt' come as far north as the Orkneys on an offensive and b) wouldn't be able to bypass the sunken ships at the harbor's south entrance and make an attack and c) wouldn't be able to combat the strong currents that ebb and flow from the harbor during tide changes. However, a German uboat skippered by Gunther Prien came into this harbor in 1939 and sank British Destroyer killing Royal Oak killing 800 on board.





Also of note--Jack spent time here when he was 18 years old as a sailor in the Royal Navy. He teared up as we entered the harbor, clearly recognizing the place and its awesome scenery. He told me shortly after we tied up that he never would have imaged that he'd live long enough to be back here and that he couldn't believe the circumstances surrounding his second visit. The last time Jack was in Scapa Flow was in October of 1942.

Because I am abroad I feel an even stronger sense of patriotism this 4th of July. In many ways, I see this sailing trip is an expression of my own patriotism. Ironically, the farther away I travel the more profoundly I come to understand what is unique and important about America--most relavant for me are the passion for adventure and a desire to experience the unkown. We live in the best country in the world!

Happy Fourth of July! God Bless America!

--Paul

"I look forward to a future in which our country will match its military strength with our moral restraint, its wealth with our wisdom, its power with our purpose. "

- President John Fitzgerald Kennedy