Dingle, Ireland

Current Location: Dingle, Ireland

Current Coordinates: 52°′″N 10°′″W

Next Stop: Cork, Ireland

Listening: "Shine," by David Gray (discman, ipod soaked)

Reading: Postwar: A History of Europe Since 1945 by Tony Judt

Last night after dinner while Mike and I were comparing our childhood summers we discovered that even though separated by approximately forty years, many of our experiences were the same if not exactly alike. Similarities included constant bike riding, no girls clubs, war games, and an obsession with building forts. Most notably, we agreed that as children our summers seemed to last forever, as if the space between Memorial day and Labor day was an eternity eclipsed only by the time spent waiting for the next summer to roll around. Childhood in suburban America before XBOX and ipods was an idyllic and formative experience.

This summer has been the first one since my preteen years that has progressed at a similarly pregnant pace, perhaps because of its familiarly adventerous spirit as manifested by open sees, endless days (literally, especially in Norway), and an overwhelming sense of freedom and invincibility.

July has been a particularly long month. In fact, much more has happened during the month of July worth writing about as compared to June when we spent most of our time in Norweigan ports (hence all of the pedantic and editorial stuff). But now that my role has shifted from cultural observer to field reporter, I feel as though I'm not keeping up my end of the bargain. In large part this is not my fault--internet is much less available along the wild western coasts of Scotland and Ireland. I went into one small pub in Scotland in a very small town (one payphone) and asked if they had "wi-fi internet access." The publican had absolutely no idea what I was talking about. That, coupled with the inferiority of my laptop and the hapless backpack in the bog incident at Tory Island has made posting on Paulgrimage challenging and stressful.

But, here I am. Enough excuses and apologies. I'm now going to do my best to recap the month of July before we're into August.

My first entry of this month was from Lerwick, Shetland islands. Since Lerwick we've sailed over 700 miles from...

Scotland:

Lerwick-->Stromness, Orkney Islands (July 4th)-->Stornoway, Isle of Lewis--> Isle of Skye (hatch incident), to Isle of Mull (where we sat anchored for 7 days), down into

Ireland:

Tory Island--> Inishbofin-->Kilronan, Aran Islands--> and finally to Dingle where we are now.

I covered most of what happened in Scotland in the posts from Stornoway and Mull. Highlights and lowlights here include the broken hatch incident and the seven day stint at Ross of Mull and the correlating pub time and overnight stay at the Argyll Arms Hotel. Really, those days passed by so slowly. The visit to Iona (where St. Colomba brought Christianity to the Scots in 536 AD) was worthwile and afforded me many nice shots of the Benedictine Abbey (dates back to the 9th century) that still operates there. Evidence of Viking raiding parties and their eventual absorption into the local populations and cultures is present at each port stop from Lerwick through Isle of Mull and really, down into where we are now. I have a new found respect and appreciation for the impact that viking culture had on the course of western civilization. I definitely was not given the full story on that in grade school. In fact, my 6th grade history teacher told me never to forget the date 1066-- the date of the Norman conquest. I never really stopped and thought about what the name Norman really meant literally. Nor-Men means "men from the north," or "north- men," all reffering to the race of sailors, plunders, and warriors who originally sailed down from Scandanavia into the British isles. These were the Vikings, and I want to be one when I grow up.

from Tory Island

I briefly described Tory Island in my most recent post from Inishbofin. Tory is notable because it is the most isolated habited island in Ireland and also of course because of the amazing dog and dolphin synchronizing swim team routine that takes place in the harbor. I've got some video on my digital camera of this and I will put it up on youtube as soon as I get back. We spent most of our time in Tory fixing, cleaning, all the while waiting for favorable winds to blow us further south down to Inishbofin.

This is one of the pictures that cost me my ipod. (above)

Dog and dolphin

Inishbofin is famous because it boasts one of the world's most protected natural harbors and because of the Cromwellian fort that overlooks the town. Oliver Cromwell made a point to fortify and protect Ireland during the interregnum, fearing that the Vatican and the Spanish would intervene on behalf of the once entirely Catholic nation. Today, Inishbofin is a popular vacation destination. There is a very swanky hotel here that has a spa, a very posh (and overpriced) restaurant, and a spacious bar populated on the evening we were there by singles in their mid-forties. Not my crowd. By the way, posh was originally a nautical term, meaning "port out, starboard home," which was typically the most desirable cabin location on passenger ships travelling to and from the British colonies in the far east. Free etymology lesson, no charge.

We left Inishbofin for the Aran Islands on Saturday morning at 5am. The passage was smooth and the scenery was amazing. Scotland was nice, the western coast of Ireland during summertime is one of the most beatiful places that I've ever seen, even taking into account the Greek Isles, which is where I was one year ago today.

The Aran Isles is a popular vacation spot for people my age. The most common mode of transportation on the island is a bike, which can be rented at a cost of 10 euro for the whole day. The town is located right near the harbor with bars, internet cafes, a few hotels, one large beach, and even some palm trees (caused by the Gulf Stream). This was the first time on this trip that it really felt like summer outside. I was sweating, and even managed to get some much needed sun on my chest. I'd like to have some color when I get back! I rented a bike and hoofed it up to Dun Aengus, one of several prehistoric forts on the Aran Islands. Here I took pictures and video of sheer cliffs that drop off into the Atlantic. Also, when looking out beyond these cliffs, it was powerful to know that I was standing on the last edge of land between Ireland and the other side of the Atlantic.

We sailed away from Aran down into Dingle on Sunday evening at 6pm. On the way down I caught the most amazing sunset-- I must have taken 50 pictures of it. Absoultely spectacular colors! I also caught several pictures of dolphins jumping in mid-air with the sunset in the backdrop. I might even be able to make some money off of these shots--the best pictures that I have ever taken.

So there you have it. That's my month of July in retrospect. I'm very glad to be here in Dingle now, the last stop before Cork. We sail for Cork tomorrow morning. Cork is unfortunately where Jack is getting off the boat. I am truly sad to see him go, as I am doubtful that I will ever see him again. Spending time with Mr. Nye over the past two months has been an honor. He is a good man--kind, patient, quick-witted with a sharp sense of humor. In essence, he is exactly what I want to be when I'm his age. A true gentleman.

Summer rolls on. Believe it or not, there are only three weeks left before I get off of the ship and head back to the states for a few weeks before heading off on my next adventure. This has been most demanding experience of my life both physically and psychologically, and I'm proud to say that I'm fully adjusted to life at sea. I am completely comfortable being uncomfortable, prepared for things to go bad and pleasantly surprised when they go right. This, like those of my preteen years, has been an endless summer--a formative and life changing experience that I'm sure I'll spend the rest of my life measuring myself against.

--Paul

The sea - this truth must be confessed - has no generosity. No display of manly qualities - courage, hardihood, endurance, faithfulness - has ever been known to touch its irresponsible consciousness of power. The ocean has the conscienceless temper of a savage autocrat spoiled by much adulation. He cannot brook the slightest appearance of defiance, and has remained the irreconcilable enemy of ships and men ever since ships and men had the unheard of audacity to go afloat together in the face of his frown."

from Mirror of the Sea, by Joseph Conrad